Bangkok's Celebrated Essen Scene Decimated Von COVID Restrictions

It is one of the dining capitals of the world, but Bangkok’s foodie reputation is now hanging by a thread as the coronavirus devastates the city’s restaurant scene - the damage seen in for sale signs on the street and desperate Facebook posts from chefs lamenting closures.

Bo.lan, Chu and Soul Food Mahanakorn are city favorites all wiped out by a virus which bit deep into restaurant revenue during the first lockdown in April 2020, but 15 months later has killed off the businesses, which struggled through relentless restrictions on the hospitality industry.

On June 27, the Thai government banned all indoor dining in Bangkok and surrounding provinces, in a bid to stamp out the gravest round of the virus, which has left more than 2,000 dead and infected around 230,000 others since April.

Just one week before, restaurants celebrated after being told they could extend opening hours until 11p.m. local time - although a months-long alcohol ban was still formally in place.

“First to be shot, last to be tended to,” Michelin-recognized chef Chalee Kader of 100 Mahaseth restaurant posted on Facebook in early May, referring to the instant damage of restrictions to the food and beverage sector - which has received little state aid amid the pandemic. A Michelin ranking refers to the rating given a restaurant on quality.

“The service industry does not deserve to be left to bleed to death like this. We need help, REAL HELP, and we need it now.”

The impassioned plea has echoed across an Asian city defined by its food, from roof-top fine dining to Michelin-starred crab omelettes dished out at street side stalls.

Across the country, 50,000 establishments were already in deep trouble before the latest round of restrictions took a toll on the economy in April, according to the Thai Restaurant Association.

For Chirayu Na Ranong, chef and owner of downtown brunch spot Chu, the pileup of rent, the absence of customers and lack of government help meant closure of his flagship branch in the Asoke section of Bangkok.

“What could have saved my business is if the government had taken some responsibility during any of these lockdowns?” he said while speaking with VOA News.

The food scene faces major changes, owners say, with big chains poised to pick up stricken businesses in prime locations and hollow out Bangkok's eclectic and affordable mid-range restaurants.

“I think more businesses like ours will look to downsize and definitely move out of the big complexes with high rents,” Chirayu added.